Journey to peaceful scenic landscape of Khaptad (http://epaper.thehimalayantimes.com/Details.aspx?id=7247&boxid=45655845&dat=1/28/2016)

Khaptad lies in an elevated plateau that consists of grassland or meadows which is called Patan in Nepali between the sub alpine landscapes. Khaptad National park is located at far western region of Nepal and spread over fours district – Doti, Bajhang, Bajura & Acham. In fact the boundaries of the four districts meet at a point in Khaptad. It is 225 sq.km with highest point at 3212 m. The Khaptad national park is named after Khaptad Baba.


It has always been amazing travelling new places especially high hills and mountains. I always get thought of getting back to same place again in lifetime. Khaptad is one among those that i would want to visit again.
My journey was to start around first week of May after i won first "Why i travel challenge?" competition by SherpaShah. This challenge was to encourage women's for solo travel. They are two people who are trying to encourage women to travel solo with some purpose. The challenge will be continued in following years as well. My journey to Khaptad was obstructed by earthquake in 25th April, and due to unfavorable situation in country one after another, i could finally travel in 1st Nov.
I packed my bag with all necessary items for trekking and leaved Kathmandu. The visit to Khaptad takes you to the far western region of Nepal. It is a very long 30-32 hours journey from Kathmandu to Silgadhi from where the trek starts. I had never travelled continuously for more than 12 hrs. The bus passes through many high lights of western Nepal. Although you will miss them if travelling at night, these include Bardiya National Park, Chisapani Bridge over Karnali, the GhodaGhodi Tal. The saddest part while travelling far west for me was to see deforested hills almost every hills. Around 12 pm next day bus left me at Atarya, Kailali. Due to fuel crisis i could only find few buses that were traveling to Silgadi. Lucky! I thought to be, as i found bus to Silgadi but it nearly stopped more than 3 hrs on the way to fill the fuel. On way to Dadeldhuda the road passed through very high point in a cliff. I was dropped in Silgadi in front of Saileshwori hotel around 10pm. However, the bus ride is one of the harder parts of the trip.
My travel from Silgadi to Jhigrana was quite a long trek.  I often met people travelling down and up to the hill with donkey, and tried to communicate with them. When i reached Baghlekh i changed my mind of spending my night due to unavailability of hotel.  After two hrs straight walk to Jhigrana, i could finally get good food and nice place to stay. The owners of Khaptad sandesh hotel and lodge were really overwhelming. For most part of the trek there is no electricity and mobile network. My mobile couldn't catch any signals from here.

Next day, i continued my journey to Bichpani, from where i entered Khaptad National Park. Well, i was informed way to Bichpani is tough, high steep hill trekking between jungle. Packed with water and foods to eat with heavily filled bag, it almost took 7 hours to reach Bichpani. Cold and breezing climate, Bichpani was totally freezing than Jhigrana. There were almost more than 10 people who were travelling to khaptad and were staying in Bichpani on same day.
Travelling from Bichpani to Khaptad patan was in between jungle which was most pleasing part of travel as i could see all autumn leaves on the way, it was simply beautiful.  In between jungle i was caught by light snow fall, and was my first experience. After 6 hrs long walk, i finally entered Khaptad patan. As this is protected area we will find dust bins in every stops.
 It was first time i saw patans, it feels amazing to see such lands in high altitude in between alpine dominated jungles. Khaptad is known for its green meadows, grasslands, pastures or Patans.  It is said that there are altogether 22 large Patans within the Khaptad National park. The Patans are large enough to please your eyes.

The jewel of the Khaptad is of course the open green meadows spread over gentle terrain cut by small streams and lying between evergreen alpine forests. The jungles of Khaptad are rich for medcinal plants. The landscape resembles something that we usually see in the post cards and Khaptad offers you the chance to experience it yourself. During spring and autumn the fields are said to be covered with colourful flowers although i was not lucky enough to see this. Pasters had turned into brown and yellow color.  In December pastures are all covered with thick snow.

It almost takes one hour or more to reach Khaptad hotel which lies side of army barrack. As i was tired i planned not to visit any places that evening rather took rest.
In my 3 days stay at Khaptad,  after having conversation with available people around, I knew that this place has already loose many flora and fauna and is in threat of losing more in near future due to change in climate.



In following days, I went to visit religious site Triveni, Kedar dunga, Khaptad Daha, tower from where we can see Saipal Mountain range, maithan, Khaptad baba Ashram with other travellers. These places are the attractive places of Khaptad. It is said that if we take bath in Triveni all or sins will be forgiven, in jainaipurnima people visit khaptad and take bath in Kaptad daha as it is holy place.

The main religious site in the park is the Khaptad Baba Ashram 
It is the home where Khaptad baba stayed for most of his life. It is now an open museum. We can see his room, books, instruments that he used in his life. He moved in the area in 1940's to meditate and worship. He was not just a religious person but highly knowledgeable saint with fluent knowledge of science and English language. It is said that the late King Birendra went to consult him on several occasions. We can also see mountain range from here.

567 species of flora have been recorded in the protected area. Vegetation types include chir pine-rhododendron forest, oak forest and Himalayan fir-hemlock-oak forest and alder forest in riverine areas. Mammal species symbolic of the park are leopard, Himalayan black bear, wild dog, and musk deer. Bird species symbolic of the park include the Impeyan pheasant, Peregrine falcon,and vulture.”I was able to spot Langoors in jungles few other animals, see and hear different bird noises venturing and without venturing in the jungles.
It has always been easy for me to travel up to hills but difficult down to the hills. While returning from Khaptan Patan, it was hard for me to travel straight down in steep hills, i often slipped, my leg got injured. I could hardly walk down well. I had toughest time travelling back to Silgadi.
From silgadi i took jeep to dipayal. As due to fuel crisis it was hard to get bus on time. I had to take lift on truck till dhadeldura, from where i took bus to Atarya and then Kathmandu. It almost takes more than 30 hrs. But i enjoyed moments memorizing while in bus.

Well, apart of Khaptad, and its beauty, travelling solo is quite a challenging and risk itself. Sometimes scared to be alone in between jungles, as these jungles are habitat of leopards. It felt more scary to be alone women in between so many strange travellers whom i meet in between jungle and travel. The most important part of solo travel is to make friends, communicate well with people.  Travelling solo doesn't mean travelling being isolated. It means to explore new place and people.

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